Discover the Jewish Heritage of Lisbon, Portugal
The Jewish presence in the Iberian Peninsula existed long before Portugal itself became a country. The contribution of Portuguese Jews to the arts, philosophy, commerce, and sciences helped create this nation’s rich cultural heritage. This beautiful journey shows a growing interest in Portugal’s Jewish legacy in places such as Lisbon, Porto, and many smaller villages and for its Jewish quarters across Portugal that were dormant for 500 years and are now being uncovered and revisited.
With nearly 20 percent of the population believed to have Jewish ancestry, many Portuguese are searching for their Jewish roots. With DNA testing, it is not at all unusual to meet a local who did the family research and became a “Jew by surprise.” For those interested in Jewish history and its communities in Portugal, there are several cities to explore: among them are Elvas, Evora, and Castelo de Vide. The Jewish presence in Portugal dates back to a time when the country did not even exist and some documents point out that the sixth century was a probable date that marks the arrival of the first Jews. This fascinating country is filled with places, stories, and traditions that keep the Jewish heritage alive, from the streets of historic Jewish quarters, or Judarias, to some of the oldest synagogues in the country, to the present-day synagogues and museums.
Jewish heritage in Lisbon can be traced beginning with the Alfama quarter, a large community that included the Judiaria Grande and included the Rua da Judiaria. These narrow streets still evoke the spirit of the generations of Portuguese Jews who lived and flourished there. As the community grew, more Jewish refugees came to Lisbon, and a new Judiaria Pequena was formed in the 13th century near what is today known as the central Praça do Comércio. This entire area was totally destroyed by the 1755 earthquake. The nearby Rossio square, before the earthquake, was the site of the court of the Inquisition. It was there where Jews and other accused heretics were burned at the stake. There is also the National Museum of Ancient Art, where you will find a primitive Portuguese masterpiece, including Jews wearing Stars of David on their clothing and a rabbi opening the Talmud, as well as other paintings with Jewish themes.
Lisbon’s modern Jewish community:
Lisbon’s main synagogue called Shaare Tikva, or Gates of Hope, is a historic synagogue in Lisbon. It was built in the early 20th century as Jews, some but not all of Portuguese descent, returned to Portugal from Gibraltar and North Africa. The main facade of the synagogue faces an inner courtyard since Portuguese law at the time forbade non-Catholic religious institutions from facing the street. Inaugurated in 1904, the Lisbon Synagogue was the first synagogue to be built in Portugal since the late 15th century and was designed by one by one of the country’s best-known architects, Miguel Ventura Terra. The synagogue served as the center of Jewish life in Lisbon and was a sanctuary for the thousands of Jewish refugees who passed through Portugal during World War II. The marble Torah ark is inscribed with the Ten Commandments and encrusted with a gold leaf. It is also the home of a collection of documents dating from the 17th through the 20th centuries
It is also important to note that the Portuguese Jews played an important role during World War II in support of refugees, first through the creation of the “Portuguese Commission for the Assistance of the Jewish Refugees in Portugal” directed by Augusto Esaguy. Jews cannot also forget the timeless legacy of Aristides de Sousa Mendes, the Portuguese consul in Bordeaux, and Portugal’s own Oskar Schindler, a righteous gentile who saved 30,000 Jewish refugees from the horror of the Holocaust. Among those rescued were famous names like Marc Chagall, Max Ernst, and many others who contributed to the arts, sciences, and politics of the world stage. De Sousa Mendes was recognized in 1966 by Israel, which declared him to be a “Righteous Among the Nations.” In 1986, the United States Congress issued a proclamation honoring his heroic act
Belem- The tower of Belem
This civil parish got its name from the Portuguese word for Bethlehem. The Belem District houses many historic buildings that would satisfy anyone, particularly those with an interest in history, architecture, and photography. The Tower of Belem, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, stands along the Atlantic Coast. Built in the 15th century, the tower served as a gateway to Lisbon and defended the area against attacks by water
Castelo de São Jorge
Towering dramatically above Lisbon, the mid-11th-century hilltop fortifications of Castelo de São Jorge sneak into almost every snapshot of the city. Roam its snaking ramparts and pine-shaded courtyards for superlative views over the city’s red rooftops to the river. Inside the Tower of Ulysses, a camera obscura offers a unique 360-degree view of Lisbon, with demos every 20 minutes. There are also a few galleries displaying relics from past centuries, including traces of the Moorish neighborhood dating from the 11th century at an active archaeological site. But the standout is the view and its feeling of traveling back in time amid fortified courtyards and towering walls.
Alfama
With a history that dates back to the Moors, Alfama is characterized by narrow, cobblestone streets that wind past dozens of quaint shops, cozy little restaurants, and traditional Fado clubs, all of which are housed within historic yet well-preserved architecture. You can quickly feel like an intruder if you take a wrong turn into someone’s backyard. Early morning is the best time to catch a more traditional scene such as when women sell fresh fish from their doorways.
Sintra
Sintra is a picturesque Portuguese town that is set amidst the pine-covered hills of the Serra de Sintra. This hilly and slightly cooler climate enticed the nobility and elite of Portugal, who constructed exquisite palaces, extravagant mansions, and decorative gardens. The variety of fascinating historic buildings and beautiful scenery has established Sintra as a fantastic tourist destination and has since become the most popular day trip from Lisbon. What’s more, the entire city is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site due to its artistic, botanical, and historic richness. The Jewish Quarter of Sintra, where the Jews lived before the forced conversions of 1497, is still visible today.
Cascais
Cascais is the finest resort town on the Lisbon coastline and makes for an enjoyable destination for a day trip. Cascais is set along a beautiful coastline of sandy beaches and rocky headlands, while within the town are grand mansions, fascinating museums, and attractive parks. There is a lot to see and do in Cascais and it is a highly recommended day trip.
Estoril
Estoril is a stylish and fashionable Portuguese beach resort that is situated on the beautiful coastline that extends to the west of Lisbon. The town boasts fine restaurants, world-class hotels, and the largest casino on the Iberian Peninsula, all of which provide Estoril with a prosperous atmosphere and a reputation for exclusivity. Within the Estoril region, there is a diverse selection of sights and activities; these include glorious beaches, championship-grade golf courses, and historic towns to explore. During the Second World War, it was the refuge of writers, politicians, artists, businessmen, and many Jews persecuted by the Third Reich.
Bairro Alto and Chiado
Bairro Alto and Chiado are two closely related districts of Lisbon, with one being fashionable and stylish by day while the other is trendy and cool by night. Chiado is the popular shopping and theatre district of Lisbon, which has a selection of historic monuments, traditional shops, and interesting cafes and restaurants. Does Bairro Alto have the best nightlife in Lisbon? Simply put, yes. Bairro Alto is the nightlife hub of the city with countless small bars, trendy intimate venues, and restaurants where the haunting sounds of Fado can be heard wafting out. During the weekends, the revelers spill onto the streets and there is a carnival atmosphere along the narrow cobbled streets, filled with people enjoying the night.
For more information:
To plan a trip to Portugal, contact Visit Portugal or log on to:
https://www.visitportugal.com/en
Story by Meyer Harroch – New York Jewish Travel Guide & New York Jewish Guide.com
The author took part in a press trip sponsored by Visit Portugal.
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